For the owners and sushi chefs here, this place is less a restaurant and more a calling – an institution whose mission of serving some of the best sushi in New York City demands unwavering discipline and attention to every conceivable detail, right down to the twice-daily cleaning (with unprocessed rice bran) of the tables and sushi counter, which chef Naomichi Yasuda helped build by hand. The mix of Japanese short- and medium-grain rice is made in-house every morning, and there is no Kikkoman soy sauce to be found here. No, they make their own, and they advise that customers use it sparingly so as not to diminish the taste of the famously fresh fish. The sushi chefs also instruct against mixing wasabi directly into the soy sauce, encouraging you to add a small amount directly on the fish instead. The beautiful dining room of solid bamboo planks draws the Midtown business crowd (at lunch in particular), creative types from downtown, and everybody in between. Chef Yasuda prides himself on customizing each meal, and is even said to consider the size of his patrons' mouths before preparing their sushi. Former New York Times food critic Frank Bruni recommended going with only one other person, as opposed to a group, as "the men in white and first-rate fish they're cutting give you all the company and diversion you need."
Reservations suggested. Beer, wine and sake available. Serving lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat. Closed Sun.
"This defiantly traditional, tranquil oasis near Grand Central Terminal is the best restaurant out-of-towners never hear about. Don't expect run-of-the-mill spicy tuna rolls."
—Food & Wine
" ... From the time Naomichi Yasuda opened Sushi Yasuda more than eight years ago, when William Grimes awarded it three stars in The New York Times, it has been among the best. And a recent visit suggested that there's been no slippage, no drift."
– Frank Bruni, The New York Times, Aug 27, 2008
The New York Times: *** (excellent); Top Pick
New York magazine: *** (generally excellent); Critics' Pick
Zagat 2010: 28 food rating (extraordinary to perfection)
Time Out New York: Critics' Pick
The Village Voice: Critics' Pick