Jonathan Swift once mused, "He was a bold man that first ate an oyster," but at Aquagrill, it doesn't take an act of courage to dive into the 25–30 varieties of oysters served daily, as all the oceanic offerings here are fresh and exquisitely prepared. Husband-and-wife team Jeremy (chef) and Jennifer (sommelier) Marshall's unfussy SoHo hotspot draws rave reviews for its seafood specialties, desserts made in-house and weekend brunch at reasonable prices. Aside from the famed raw bar, which has served more than 200 varieties of oysters since Aquagrill opened in 1996, seafood delights include falafel-crusted salmon, bouillabaisse, and seared diver scallops with Dungeness crabmeat risotto. For dessert, there's roasted caramelized grapefruit with grapefruit sorbet or the warm apple tart with cinnamon ice cream and caramel sauce.
Reservations suggested. Full bar. Serving lunch Mon–Fri, dinner nightly. Sat–Sun brunch noon–3:45 pm.
"Aquagrill's oyster menu is a wondrous thing, presenting as broad a selection of East Coast and West Coast oysters as just about any restaurant in New York. On a given night there will be more than two dozen kinds of oysters on hand."
– Frank Bruni, The New York Times, Aug 9, 2007
"Don't worry if your expertise is limited to tuna on rye ... [the staff can] tell you all about the 25 varieties of fresh oysters, or wax rhapsodic about the charms of sea urchin in citrus-soy dressing, cod with wild-mushroom fondue, and Maine lobster salad."
—Time Out New York
"The oysters were impeccable ... sweet and ice-cold, served with mignonette and cocktail sauce."
—The Village Voice
The New York Times: ** (very good)
New York magazine: Critics' Pick
Zagat 2010: 26 food rating (extraordinary to perfection)
Time Out New York: Critics' Pick